Westwood Heritage: Corsets

As ever synonymous with the notion of Renaissance – a French term, originally evoking rebirth – Vivienne was always one to look to the past for inspiration. ‘When you explore the past, you enter the future,’ she once expressed. Her 18th century-inspired corsets were symbolic of this vision and her keen interest in history. Though long regarded as a patriarchal instrument that would deform the female body, the garment would be reimagined by Vivienne – who was among the first to introduce underwear as outerwear. A radical choice that would empower women, as opposed to binding them.

Adorned with opulent satin, brocade, or lace – the corset was traditionally crafted with rods made of whalebone and intricately embroidered detailing; all overt displays of wealth. In accentuating the sexually dimorphic curves of the body, it functioned as a silent way of asserting one’s place in society. First appearing in the Autumn-Winter 1987/88 Harris Tweed collection, the Portrait Corset established Vivienne as the first designer of the 20th century to subvert the historical flat corset structure – which was originally worn by the fashion-forward high society women of 18th century salon culture. This first incarnation referenced a 19th century copy of an original bodice, showing the multiple panels stiffened with whalebone, which forced the breasts up and out. This design was modernised using stretch panels on the side and zip fastening instead of lacing; A feature that would evolve throughout the seminal Gold Label collections of the 1990’s, soon establishing itself as a signature of the house.